Week 3: TENCEL ®, reaching goals and positive feedback from the Danish Fashion Institute

I was so happy last week when I received an email full of positive feedback about the project from none other then Johan Arnø Kryger, Senior Manager, Danish Fashion Institute and Deputy Head of Secretariat, Nordic Fashion Association. Among the many kind words, one comment really stood out for me: “The international fashion industry is currently on the cusp of a Green revolution, granting the Danish fashion industry a unique opportunity be at the forefront of this movement by taking leadership and creating growth. But to realize this potential, knowledge and research are essential. This innovative partnership between designer Rachel Kollerup and FORCE Technology will undoubtedly make a positive contribution to this industry and help Denmark set the standard for sustainability in the fashion industry.”

Vacation has come to an end, for both Rasmus Nielsen, FORCE technology as well as myself… but before we can head into the lab and get started, we need to get organized – which means lists and fact sheets galore. We use raw material sourcing and production conditions to analyze the collection and its materials to their full extent. That means that we must take great care in our preparation, measuring and weighing everything (in grams!) to have an accurate idea before LCA screening begins.

While I was at the sewing machine yesterday, working hard on a pair of slacks, I decided to perform a little experiment. I weighed my satin wool square, which measures 150 cm by 140 cm, and it came out to 480 grams. After cutting the fabric for the slacks, I weighed the unused pieces to see just how much was going to waste. At 165 grams, I was shocked (and disappointed) to find I was wasting almost 35 percent! This leads me to the conclusion that clearly prototype waste and production waste are not the same, and I will have to force myself to come up with innovative ways to reduce it as much as possible. The sewing production places reduces waste and maximizes efficiency by using banners in a more constructive manner. Regardless of comparisons, we must all keep a close eye on production waste and more specifically what happens to it when manufacturing has completed. To help keep myself in check, I will continue weighing compulsively and hopefully be able to reduce it.

Lyocell (the generic fabric form of TENCEL ®) is a sustainable, ultra-soft fabric made from beech wood and eucalyptus, making it extremely popular and thus difficult to get your hands on. I received my very first roll of clean, un-dyed lyocell in a gorgeous eggshell white – which is literally calling out to me, begging me to whip up some sleek dress shirts with soft, flirty pleats. Apparently Spanish made-in-green supplier ROYO offers custom lyocell dying in literally any color your heart desires. I’ve decided to investigate further into this process, hoping that an added benefit may be a closer insight into the textile dying process in general. We shall see!

Up for next week: continuing lists and cutting out the collection’s pieces.

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